For me (and many Greeks), Vouliagmeni has the best beaches in Athens, as well as some of the most gastronomically exquisite restaurants, and a throng of instagrammable spots.
One of the most expensive plots of real estate of the Hellenic Republic, the Athenian Riviera is an island-like paradise of the Greek capital. It’s unsurprising that a few months ago high-end publication house Assouline released a coffee table book dedicated to this part of Athens, proving that it is gaining traction globally.
“The Malibu of Greece”, as proclaimed by President Barack Obama, Vouliagmeni is home to beautiful beaches, some of the best restaurants in Greece, and boasts a plethora of Greek celebrity-residents (including international tennis star, Stefanos Tsitsipas). To its credit, Vouliagmeni, unlike some other Athenian suburbs, isn’t pretentious. Its habitants, albeit mostly from a wealthy background, often adorn casual attire, sipping their coffees in their t-shirts and sweats in one of the many cafés of the area. A real community spirit, people often greet each other on the street – little snobbery can be found in this municipality.
A pro-European town[1], the majority of Vouliagmeniotes are fiercely athletic: beach volleyball, clay court tennis, surfing, sunset jogging along the coastline, or even water sports at the Vouliagmeni Nautical Club (whose athletes have won gold and silver medals in wind-surfing and water polo at the Olympic Games).
For me (and many Greeks), Vouliagmeni has the best beaches in Athens, as well as some of the most gastronomically exquisite restaurants, and a throng of instagrammable spots. Furthermore, its location between the ancient city-centre and Sounion is idyllic for day-trips.
Beaches
Astir Beach may be one of the most well-known beaches in Athens. Despite its hefty entrance price-tag, its golden sand and turquoise waters are worth the expense. The beach boasts table service, boutiques, bar-restaurants, and is also the site of an ancient temple dedicated to the sun god, Apollo. For something much more affordable, head across the road to Akti. The water is just as good as Astir’s, however it lacks some of the frivolous facilities offered by its neighbour.
If a more Mykonos vibe is for you, Krabo in the Kavouri district of the town is the place to be. A small private beach, with a superb on-site restaurant and low-playing house music, the ambience transports you instantly from the Saronic to the Aegean, where you don’t feel like you’re in a bustling city of 4m inhabitants.
The option of Limanakia is also on the cards, a cliff-jumpers paradise with crystal clear waters, just off the busy Poseidonos Avenue, and only accessible on foot (pack sensible shoes – the terrain can be rather treacherous!). The spot also has a shack serving drinks, adding to the rustic vibe.
And a guide to sunbathing in Vouliagmeni must also include a visit to the iconic decking of Lake Vouliagmeni. A natural spa, this wonderful body of water is a therapeutic swimming destination with a jaw-droppingly stunning mountain backdrop.
Restaurants/Cafés
Any day in Greece begins with morning coffee (and usually a savoury or sweet pastry!) – for this we have two great options: Tanto, whose iced cappuccinos are second-to-none, and Artopolis, which also offers a range of delectable savoury and sweet pastries (including the best red velvet cake I’ve ever had).
Greece is also the land of gyro and souvlaki – for this, Zahos will meet your cheap yet cheerful meat needs. Opposite this kebab house, for home-cooked food, Louizidis offers wonderful mezze and oven-cooked mains covering every known dish in Greek cuisine (appetisers, pasta dishes, meat and fish). Both places are a good choice for lunch.
For something a touch more special, dinner at Garbi (at sunset ideally), is a lovely option for seafood ceviches, fish tartare and shellfish mezze with an on-the-water setting. For an even fancier restraurant, Ithaki in the Lemos district, has an almost Italian atmosphere, with impeccable design, a chic menu (sushi mainly) and a stunning view – set high-up overlooking Astir Beach.
To finish off your evening, desert and, specifically, waffles at Waffle House is a must-visit. A café known in the whole of Athens for having good waffles, waffins (mini chocolate-filled doughnuts) and ice-creams, it’s extremely quaint terrace is the perfect spot to end any summer evening.
Going out
For bar-hopping near the town’s Plateia district, I would recommend roof-top drinks at Swell, followed by cocktails at Surf Club and cocktails round two at Rumours. All have a wonderful aesthetic and a buzzing vibe.
Fancier libations can be enjoyed at the newly-renovated Four Seasons Astir Palace, which has many nice bars (but in different buildings, so be aware of this….): Matsuhisa for water-side drinks but also sushi; the Beef Bar; and even a seemingly more casual drink on the outdoor terrace of the Nafsika building.
And if you prefer to dance the night away, a visit to Island is an absolute necessity. For me, it’s one of the best clubs in Europe – located high up on a cliff, this open-air club has Cycladic décor, great music and drinks, reasonably-priced tables (for London standards) and it’s just simply a great time. If you can stay awake until sunrise (closing is rarely before 7am..), the morning light will reveal an amazing view of almost the whole Riviera.
Further afield
A 30-minute drive from Vouliagmeni is Sounion, which has beautiful beaches and hotels, and of course the iconic Temple of Poseidon, located on a cliff at the tip of the Attican peninsula. A visit here at sunset is an absolute must.
A 20-minute drive in the other direction, will bring you to Faliro, and specifically the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre, a relatively new site which has quickly become a staple in Athenian sight-seeing. Home to the Greek National Library and the National Opera, it also features a beautifully-sloped roof garden with a plethora of olive trees, with views of the whole peninsula, as well as a huge canal which shows off hourly dancing fountain shows. For the art-lovers amongst you, its roster of exhibitions are also worth visiting.
A 5-minute drive to neighbouring towns like Glyfada, Voula and Varkiza also provide for many dining, outing and beach-venturing possibilities: Balux Seaside (beach and food), Su Casa (coffee and food), Rey Pablo (brunch), and Holy Spirit (drinks) are just a handful of potential options.
[1] During the 2015 referendum, the municipality staunchly voted “yes” (66.3%) vs the 61.3% who nationally chose “no” to the Greek bailout measures.
The Constant Times 